Friday, 11 March 2011

Indiana Jones was there, Lawrence of Arabia was there, and now Stephen, Jordan

I started my journey in Dahab, Egypt. From there it was simple, two hour bus ride to the Nuweiba ferry, and a three hour ferry across the Red Sea to Aqaba. The two hour bus ride was great, I flagged down a micro bus on the side of the road, he pleasantly gave me to high of a price and I replied in Arabic that he was a cheap prick, and nevertheless I got my price. Next came the Nuweiba ferry. There are many words to describe this ferry, in order for me to keep it PG I am not going to write any of these words. The three hour ferry began with me being stamped out of the country and placed in a cold cement room. The three hours slowly turned into nineteen hours of sleeping on a cold bench and enjoying the cockroach infested bathrooms. Luckily my mother joined me for this part of the journey so I did not have to commit suicide. After eighteen hours the Arabs began fighting with the police and we were allowed on the ferry. Now my biggest tip is DO NOT USE THE BATHROOMS ON THE FERRY, if you do decide to use them come prepared or expect a life changing experience.
Praise Allah our ferry arrived after five hours, Aqaba was a beautiful sight, mainly cause I wanted off this boat as of twenty four hours ago. Aqaba is the city where Lawrence of Arabia crossed the Arabian desert and took the town through force, But in modern days Aqaba is no longer a small desert city, it’s a large vacation resort for all Arab people alike. My visit to Aqaba was not long because of the fact I wanted to get as far away from Western culture and resorts as possible by coming to the Middle East, So off I was. In Aqaba I met a very “interesting” taxi driver who agreed to take me too Wadi Musa via the Wadi Rum desert, for only 15 Dinar (about 25 CAN). The drive was spectacular we crossed deep red deserts and high chilly mountains, I become acquainted with my new found friend. My driver was a man who loved stopping every twenty minutes either for more Jordanian music or just to slap hands with a friend on the side of the road, he was also very fond of giving the middle finger to the police, regardless he made the trip very enjoyable and memorable. After about five hours we arrived at our cozy hostel named the Cleopatra, in Wadi Musa. The Hostel was managed by a very friendly family, the rooms were small but cozy and complete with thick blankets and rug wall hangings, the family gave us tea at every moment they could. But this is where I had to bid farewell to my taxi driver friend, but not before tea and more police hating conversation. That night we wondered off through the cobble stone streets and found some very tasty lamb Shawerma ( diced up lamb meat and heart in a pita bun), and of course Sheesha (flavoured tobacco smoked through a water pipe).
Early the next morning we strolled out walking through the towns twisty alley ways. It was about a hours walk before we arrived at Petra. This is where you truly walk in the foot steps of Indiana Jones. You begin walking through large colourful red canyons before the first sight of Petra peeking around the corner hits you. Petra is spectacular, definitely earning its title among the wonders of the worlds. From this point on we hike through the hundreds of burial grounds and monasteries. On our way up to the main Monastery I recognized a face walking beside me. I asked if he was on television, and he happened to be a travel host on the National Geographic channel. This was exciting apart from he wanted little to do with me… o well. When you arrive at the Monastery you step foots into the world of adventurers. It’s a large Monastery cut into the side of deep red rock right on the top of a mountain. The panoramic views and the monastery makes the long hike up here spectacular. I wandered around Petra for about seven hours taking in as much of it as I could that day. That night the Cleopatra hostel family invited us to have a tradition Jordanian meal with them. It was a wonderful mix of spices, kebabs, and different vegetables, and lots and lots of tea. And for dessert we wondered back to town for some excellent cheesy middle eastern dessert (the orange stuff is the best!!!!).
I Spent the next day at Petra again taking in its beauty and sprawled out sights, but the next day I was standing on the street corner with my thumb out trying to get a ride to Kerak. I eventually got a Mini bus and took the four hour journey to Kerak through the steep mountain trails. Kerak is a interesting place, the whole city is built on the tops of a mountain, and on the very top is a massive crusaders castle built by the Franks and conquered by Saladin. My hotel was cheap and included spectacular views from the window. Kerak city is a interesting enough place to explore, with its long cobble stone alley ways filled with the strong scents of spices and the colourful sights of Middle Eastern Markets. The best part of Kerak is there are absolutely no tourists in sight, most tourist skip this place on there way to Petra, so better for me. I awoke the next day early enough to get to Kerak castle when it opens. The castle is in spectacular shape. As you wonder its dark corridors you get the sense you are in medieval times, and every time a window appears you are faced with jaw dropping views, you can pretty much see all of Jordan from this castle. After Kerak castle I spent the evening in the cities cafes and markets living it up as the people do there.
The next day I bargained myself into a mini bus and bribed the driver into stopping at the Dead Sea and Mount Nebo. The dead sea is a slimy but fascinating experience, you literally do just float in that sea, you can stand straight up and your shoulders are above water even though your feet are above twenty feet of water, only down fall is when you get out your covered in a thick salty slime. After the Dead Sea we climbed to the top of Mount Nebo, this is apparently where Moses saw the promise land, for me it was a nice break from the ten hour bus ride. Finally I arrived in Amman the capitol of Jordan. Amman is great for a few days, I wandered its streets and markets picking myself up a Keffiyeh ( A red checker scarf worn on the head with rings), and in the evening having tea and sheesha. I met a fellow traveller from the Netherlands the next day and he accompanied me and my travelling mom up to Jerash and the Golan heights. Jerash is a well maintained Roman city complete with its very own Gladiator stadium were you can witness Gladiator fight re-enactments (you can easily lie and say you’re a student for more than half the price). After Jerash we climbed the large hill to see the Golan heights. Beautiful views and the fact my last name is Gollan made this fun for me. That night we tried to go to the only bar I had ever seen in the Middle East, turns out we had been their only customers that week, maybe its because of the countless posters of Baywatch and the dark red lights throughout the entire bar, who knows. After a few more days in Amman I prepared to leave this beautiful country and head for Israel, but that’s an entirely new story.

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