Budgeting your way alone to Mt Everest, Nepal

It was my 10^th Carbonara on Freak Street in Kathmandu. I was in the Kathmandu area for about a week now and just waiting for tomorrow, tomorrow is the day I fly to Lukla and begin my journey to Mt. Everest, (The flight with return cost me a whopping 90 US dollars). For some reason I always came back and had this Carbonara, It’s not like it was a good pasta but it hit the spot.

The next day I grabbed my cab and was on my way to the Kathmandu Domestic Airport. I arrived at what looked like some sort of airport and the chaos began, touts, confused tourists, and huge line ups. Eventually I was directed to my plane, another shock my plane took on the image of the bush planes I used to ride in as a child in the Tundra. As the plane ascended the Hindu foothills slowly rose into mountains so high that they make any other mountain chain on earth look as if they were foothills. That’s when the turbulence kicked in the plane jolted up and down fiercely, the women to my left was symbolizing the holy cross praying to god, the man to my right was…. Well making good use of those little bags they provide behind the seats.

It was my 11^th Carbonara on Freak Street in Kathmandu. I was still shaken from the plane ride I had just taken, The captain had turned our flight all the way back, and with so much disappointment here I sat in my favourite restaurant again. The following day I made my second attempt to Lukla. The standard procedures preceded at the crazy airport once again, and I boarded my flight.

At about ten A.M I arrived at the worlds most dangerous airstrip, Lukla’s airstrip looks as if it was thrown onto the mountain side. The security was a breeze to pass through and then you walk into a barrage of touts and Sherpa’s calling out, you need a Sherpa to go!!, and the trail is not marked you need a guide!!. This is of course all untrue and should be ignored at all costs. The trail begins at the edge of town, its very deceiving, it leads you straight down hill and later you go straight back up. First you arrive in a small town called Chuma where most of the tour groups bunk for the night.  But me being me I decided to keep on going all the way to Namche Bazaar. On my way I met a man going by the name Axel Extreme, Axel was a extreme sportsman who was setting a record for climbing Everest with no oxygen, no Sherpa, and all alone. Axel had asked me to be his camera man and of course I didn’t pass this chance up. I arrived in Namche Bazaar around five PM, Namche Bazaar is not your typical Himalayan village, it has a German bakery, a ATM, and cushy beds. It’s a great place to take your acclimatization day (and munch on a yak stake or two). After my acclimatization day I left Namche without my travel companion Axel due to his altitude sickness. The trail from here is hard but breath taking, The small villages you pass by have much character and smiling faces. The trail sings with the sound of yak bells, and every so often a line of yaks pass by you (make sure you go on the inside or they throw you off the mountain). After passing through about five or so small villages I arrived in Tyengboche. Tyengboche is spectacular, its centered in between a mountain pass, and hosts a very large Tibetan monastery. The monks at the Monastery are more than willing to show you around and give you stories about their lives and culture. Tyengboche is also where I experienced my first ice cold shower, its horrible but I never felt so good afterwards. In the evening I sat in the towns only restaurant and watched the huge clouds roll slowly into the village.

Early the next Morning I was back on the trail. For me this is where altitude took its effect, your lungs hurt and your always short of breath. After what felt like forever I arrived in Dingboche. Dingboche does not have the character as the following towns, but it still has snickers pies and Sherpa stew. I stayed in a tea house for two days, it was run by a lovely Tibetan lady who provided me with very thick blankets. At this point I had noticed my cash was getting low so it was time to be cheap. After spending an extra day for acclimatization I took the long upward trail to Lobuche. I have never seen so many evacuations, on just the day I arrived, I had saw seven evacuations. Food was very expensive here so I decide to splurge and by myself a box of very unsatisfying crackers, Luckily there was a jar of peanut butter on the table that I made good use of….. I ate the whole jar.

The next step after Lobuche is Gorakshep, but this is where th trail becomes very difficult due to altitude and fallen rocks. The trail takes most about four hours, but I rushed it and made it in three. Gorakshep is basically not even a town it’s the launch pad to base camp, and KalaPatthar. Bottled water goes for about 3.50 US dollar here, so make sure you have cash. I arrived at Gorakshep booked a room and right away the same day I head to Base Camp. Again the trail is not the best, but its manageable. Base Camp is something itself. It has a Bakery and a Cinema. After seeing enough of base camp I decided to see if I could go a bit further. I didn’t make it too much further and that’s when my altitude sickness hit me. I had the worst headache I had ever had in my life. I was slurring my words and I eventually laid down to sleep for a bit. To my luck an American man held me steady and helped me down to Gorakshep where I had one of the worst sleeps of my life.

I woke up feeling mildly better but knew I was good enough to summit Kalapatthar. At about 4.30AM I began ascending so I could witness sunrise on Mt Everest. The climb is very steep but only takes about an hour and a half. Sunrise was incredible on Mt Everest, the air was clean, and no people in sight other than a Sherpa with a few tourists. The Sherpa approached me and asked me why I have no oxygen, I replied saying I don’t know. He handed me a cigarette and said here have some Nepali oxygen.

The same day I began back down the mountain pass. I hiked for a steady fifteen hours and made it to Namche Bazaar, that ATM had never looked better. I had German cake, a Yak Steak and a great sleep. I woke up early the next morning and made it all the way back too lukla in time for the last afternoon flight to Kathmandu.

It was my 12^th Carbonara on Freak Street in Kathmandu, And it had never tasted better. The entire trip cost just under 500 US dollars including my two way flight. This trip was one of the most incredible trips I have been on. I do recommend however taking a little bit extra cash with you.