Rurrenabaque Amazon Adventures, Bolivia

It's a very Very long bus ride from La Paz the capitol of Bolivia to Rurrenabaque. They told us it would be 17 hours, but it was more like 20 hours. The bus terminal (Well I would not call it a terminal more like a chaotic road stop), has it all, a fish market, workers on hand ready to assist with you goats and sheep onto the bus roof, and several buses that look as if they might fall apart when the engine is fired. My Spanish was good enough to get us to our seats and begin the painful process of our bus ride. The beginning of the journey is not bad, the landscape is foggy high mountain tops accompanied with hundreds of herds of lovely lamas, you cannot forget that catchy Bolivian tunes they blast over the blown speakers on the bus, but hey this bus ride only cost seven dollars so who cares if your sharing your bus with sheep, chickens, pigs, its all part of the experience.

After about four hours the landscape changes from high altitude mountains to breath taking cloud forest. I have to admit this is where it get quite frightening, the road changes from paved swirvy road to bumpy destroyed skinny road on the side of death mountain. The bus makes many stops so you can fill up on all those umm “tasty” looking Bolivian treats.

TIP: Everywhere they sell Coca leaves in bags, the driver told me to chew these leaves to get rid of the sore bum syndrome…. It really worked but not sure if this is legal or not.

The cloud forest starts to turn into thick jungle brush and ever crapier roads, but at this point is where you throw the I pod in and try to fall asleep (almost impossible!!!!). We arrived in Rurrenabaque at about 5 am, we were very tired so we gave in to the countless touts yelling to us it will be the end of the world if you don’t take their moto taxi to there hotel, I politely lied to my driver and said I had reservations at a hotel in my guide book and he took us to our destination. Rooms were very easy to find and Rurrenabaque is a very small town and easy to navigate around.

I awoke to the beautiful sounds of jungle type birds and my bro Mark playing Fifa soccer on his Ipod, this day we just explored the streets of Rurrenabaque and found a tour going out to the Pampas of the Amazon. Rurrenabaque is a great town with much small things to see, its kind of annoying that everything is in Hebrew but hey you cant go wrong with eating Shawarmas and ice cream in the Amazon. The next day we hopped in a small jeep crammed with five other people and launched off to the Pampas. The ride was long, hot, and very dusty but arriving at the Pampas is defiantly worth the journey. They put us into a barrelled out canoe with a long tail engine, and we rocketed off into the Amazon Pampas. For two hours we watched Crocs and monkeys and many types of jungle birds bypass the boat. We arrived at our jungle lodge with excitement… it had a rope swing!!!. It was a basic grass and teak hut with a large dorm. That night we were taken to “the Amazon bar”, which was spectacular, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as drinking in a teak building on stilts in the middle of a Amazon river and flashing our flash lights at the numerous crock eyes below the bar. On the way back to our lodge in the middle of the night our boat stopped and the driver yelled at me, Stephen there’s a Croc in the water reach and grab him. I gave him a puzzled look and reacted quickly to what he was saying, I reached out to the small bright eye I could see and grabbed this baby Croc, really REALLY crazy experience grabbing a baby crocodile like this.

The next day we hunted for the Giant Boa constrictor… Ya we found him and made everyone else jealous, the experience was a bit strange we were allowed to pick him up and put him around our neck… I don’t think PITA would be too happy. After that we went fishing for Piranha, and of course cause I am a Canadian my wilderness instincts kicked in and I caught seven Piranha, then we returned to our lodging and cooked up our piranhas and ate them for supper. That night we again went to the bar and returned and began to gather all of the giant frogs beneath our lodge too see how many we could catch.

The next day was great we found a Crocodile and swam up beside him… and we stole some meat from the kitchen and taunted the poor guy, yes not smart but really fun. Our boat driver then took us to swim with the river dolphins, kinda a weary feeling as your swimming in black water and feeling the nose of a dolphin playing with you feet. Then we returned to Rurrenabaque for a good sleep and to prepare ourselves to head deep into the Amazon Jungle.

We woke early so we could catch our boat into the Amazon and hike our way into the jungle. It took about four hours to ride the ferry, get our permits, and hike through the brush to our jungle hut. Again our new accommodation was very cool, just basic grass root huts in the middle of the jungle. We spent our night swapping travel stories with fellow travellers and listening to the sounds of the Amazon. The next day we hiked a trail through the Amazon, the trail was good and our Aboriginal guide showed us many different medicinal plants and we got to taste a few that numbed your tongue. And that’s when I decided to screw around with the world largest army ant, I knew there bite hurt but I had no idea how much. My macho Canadian attitude resulted in me getting bit by this ant and having the feeling that my blood was boiling and the bones in my arms were bending…… DON’T TOUCH THE ANTS. That night after my pain started to dwindle away our guide took us out once again to hike in the darkness of the Amazon, It was very noisy at night. The guide stopped us at a hole by a tree gave me a stick and said lure the tarantula out. So being me I stuck the stick in there felt something grab it and pulled this massive Brazilian Bird Eating Tarantula out of his home… pretty cool. He then took us to another sight where he pissed the Tarantulas off and a hundred small babies swarmed the area of their nest, it was like a scene right out of Indiana Jones.

The next day we started our way back to Rurrenabaque but this time we had the knowledge of survival in the jungle. We spend our last few days Exploring Rurrenabaque and its beautiful area buying a few masks here and their. Then we departed on our “lovely” bus back to La Paz, only this trip was more enjoyable because me and my friend had our own seats to ourselves….. Until a few larger aboriginal women sat beside us and of course fell asleep on us….. Its all part of the experience.

Guerrillas and Gorillas in Goma, Democratic Republic of Congo

First I would like to say that Congo is dangerous so many precautions should be taken into traveling there. There are no ATMS here so make sure you have cash, and walking around at night is very dangerous.

Rwanda is a beautiful country, only problem is seeing the gorillas will take 500 US dollars from your wallet. I have been travelling around different area’s of Rwanda for about a week when I heard that you could see gorillas in Congo. Not only that but Congo host thousands of miles of untouched rainforest, massive active volcanoes, and a little bit of danger to make it exciting. A couple other Canadian’s I met in Uganda just arrived in Rwanda a few days ago, I asked them to come to Congo with me for a bit of extra security and they agreed (and on of them speaks French!!!!).

We woke up early the following morning, packed our bags and were off to the bus station. The ride was incredible to the border. The luscious farm land slowly made way for pointy volcanoes , thick jungle, and very high mountain peaks.

Arriving into Gisenyi is where the excitement begins to build, the feeling you are entering a country that most backpackers rarely step foot into. The border was a straight forward hectic African border, the other Canadians with me forgot there yellow card thus having to bribe some random gentlemen behind the border. Then they informed us our visas will cost more … just because, we argued but she explained in French we don’t have to let you go to Congo… so we paid our 35 US dollar. Immediately after crossing the border the roads turn from smooth paved Rwandan roads to dusty black lava rock roads of Congo. The city name changes to Goma and what a change it feels like too. You get the sense very quickly you have entered a place not seen by to many tourists, there is barbed wired on every wall and road, beggars are usually amputees as well, and its very dusty from all the volcanic ash (not to mention all the stares you receive). We followed our guide book map to the shabby remains of what could have possibly been a great hostel at one time. The rooms were expensive going for 20 US dollar a night and we had to share. The owner informed us that there is to be no men sleeping in the same room because any detection of this would be hostile, also that in the previous week the kitchen had been blown up by a grenade. We asked the owner if he had any previous backpackers, he responded no but he had a journalist last year but she disappeared. So being a little scared we decided to sleep to settle our nerves.

The next day the weather was great and we had more confidence to explore deeper into the Congo. We followed our guide book to the down town core to find the “Go Congo” tourist agency. After passing by numerous amputees and UN workers we found the Agency. The owner was asleep in his chair and his worker asleep on the bench. After waking them we asked about Gorillas, they informed us due to the low number of tourists and the amount of dangerous land to get to them, there will be a charge of 500 US dollar to do this. We were very disappointed hearing this news, but he also informed us he could take us in a secured jeep further into the Congo for 50 US dollar a day. We took this amazing opportunity and set back to our “hostel” to prepare for the next day. That evening hunger set in place, the only place in town safe enough for foreigners was called Chez Dogo, it was still daylight so we walked to our destination. Chez Dogo was an interesting place it was a very tropical looking bar with very expensive pizzas. We all ordered are own individual pizza and relaxed with one of Congo’s home made beers. 9 o clock rolled around and it seemed that the lights dimmed and the music started pumping, not only that many UN workers arrived and what looked like a line of prostitutes. It was time to leave Chez Dogo, we paid our bill and set out, but the Guard informed we cannot leave the place without moto taxi, he said men were everywhere with guns and we must cover our face and hands so they don’t see. Either smart idea or good tactic to make us take his cabs, regardless we took them.

Early the next morning our jeep arrived and we left our hotel for new adventures. First our guide took us too the Goma volcanoes research facility, that’s where they explained to us the streets were covered in lava just two years ago when the volcano erupted, he showed us that cool pointy needle that jumps up and down when the volcano is gonna blow. Well he said he had never seen it move this much in a wile…. Yikes. After the research centre our jeep took us down to a bustling Congo market, it was selling everything from fruit to hats…. I didn’t see a lot else. In the market we were allowed to get out and take pictures but you didn’t have the feeling you were in a safe area. We took off once again and in numerous parts of town our guide told us to duck our heads because of safety precautions. We drove far out of town into some thick bush and finally arrived at the foot of the active volcano. There was so much volcanic rock everywhere and the steam from the volcano was directly above us. Here we noticed many Congo people were building walls and homes out of this volcanic rock. Our day finished here and we headed back to our hostel of course having supper at Chez Dogo firstly.

We were awoken once again bright and early by our guide, we quickly showered and hopped in our jeep. Today was the day we were driving deeper into the Congo. We left Goma behind us and made our way through very thick jungle for many hours. Our driver/guide pointed out many refugee camps from the war that had happened two months ago. He told us a story about how the Pygmy tribes were fighting back at the rebels, by hiding in the tree's and shooting bow and arrows. After what felt like forever he pulled over at a small African village. The village was great, its buildings were all made from banana trees and we quickly were swarmed by a large group of excited kids on our hike up to the towns lake. The lake was equally incredible, it looked like a giant hole in the earth with a large pool of water in it. We spent a few hours in the town before our guide took us to and even larger lake. At this point our guide told us he wont go any further because its not even safe for him. So we returned to Goma and spent our remaining day exploring Goma’s back streets.

The next day we explored some more of Goma, We found a shop selling masks from all over Congo, I bought a rebirth mask and a witch doctor masked ( no store would allow me in it with my masks… must have been an evil mask). We returned back to our hostel and began hearing gun shots and yelling from outside, the noise continued all night, none of us slept good that night. In the morning we were informed that there had been fighting in town and on the border and we should leave. So not thinking twice we packed our bags and ran towards the border. The border guards quickly pushed us through and we were back in safe territory in Rwanda. Congo was a Amazing country and i really wish i could have seen more. I'm sure in the future i will be going back to see more of it's wondeful people and incredible raw African sights.

Budgeting your way alone to Mt Everest, Nepal

It was my 10^th Carbonara on Freak Street in Kathmandu. I was in the Kathmandu area for about a week now and just waiting for tomorrow, tomorrow is the day I fly to Lukla and begin my journey to Mt. Everest, (The flight with return cost me a whopping 90 US dollars). For some reason I always came back and had this Carbonara, It’s not like it was a good pasta but it hit the spot.

The next day I grabbed my cab and was on my way to the Kathmandu Domestic Airport. I arrived at what looked like some sort of airport and the chaos began, touts, confused tourists, and huge line ups. Eventually I was directed to my plane, another shock my plane took on the image of the bush planes I used to ride in as a child in the Tundra. As the plane ascended the Hindu foothills slowly rose into mountains so high that they make any other mountain chain on earth look as if they were foothills. That’s when the turbulence kicked in the plane jolted up and down fiercely, the women to my left was symbolizing the holy cross praying to god, the man to my right was…. Well making good use of those little bags they provide behind the seats.

It was my 11^th Carbonara on Freak Street in Kathmandu. I was still shaken from the plane ride I had just taken, The captain had turned our flight all the way back, and with so much disappointment here I sat in my favourite restaurant again. The following day I made my second attempt to Lukla. The standard procedures preceded at the crazy airport once again, and I boarded my flight.

At about ten A.M I arrived at the worlds most dangerous airstrip, Lukla’s airstrip looks as if it was thrown onto the mountain side. The security was a breeze to pass through and then you walk into a barrage of touts and Sherpa’s calling out, you need a Sherpa to go!!, and the trail is not marked you need a guide!!. This is of course all untrue and should be ignored at all costs. The trail begins at the edge of town, its very deceiving, it leads you straight down hill and later you go straight back up. First you arrive in a small town called Chuma where most of the tour groups bunk for the night.  But me being me I decided to keep on going all the way to Namche Bazaar. On my way I met a man going by the name Axel Extreme, Axel was a extreme sportsman who was setting a record for climbing Everest with no oxygen, no Sherpa, and all alone. Axel had asked me to be his camera man and of course I didn’t pass this chance up. I arrived in Namche Bazaar around five PM, Namche Bazaar is not your typical Himalayan village, it has a German bakery, a ATM, and cushy beds. It’s a great place to take your acclimatization day (and munch on a yak stake or two). After my acclimatization day I left Namche without my travel companion Axel due to his altitude sickness. The trail from here is hard but breath taking, The small villages you pass by have much character and smiling faces. The trail sings with the sound of yak bells, and every so often a line of yaks pass by you (make sure you go on the inside or they throw you off the mountain). After passing through about five or so small villages I arrived in Tyengboche. Tyengboche is spectacular, its centered in between a mountain pass, and hosts a very large Tibetan monastery. The monks at the Monastery are more than willing to show you around and give you stories about their lives and culture. Tyengboche is also where I experienced my first ice cold shower, its horrible but I never felt so good afterwards. In the evening I sat in the towns only restaurant and watched the huge clouds roll slowly into the village.

Early the next Morning I was back on the trail. For me this is where altitude took its effect, your lungs hurt and your always short of breath. After what felt like forever I arrived in Dingboche. Dingboche does not have the character as the following towns, but it still has snickers pies and Sherpa stew. I stayed in a tea house for two days, it was run by a lovely Tibetan lady who provided me with very thick blankets. At this point I had noticed my cash was getting low so it was time to be cheap. After spending an extra day for acclimatization I took the long upward trail to Lobuche. I have never seen so many evacuations, on just the day I arrived, I had saw seven evacuations. Food was very expensive here so I decide to splurge and by myself a box of very unsatisfying crackers, Luckily there was a jar of peanut butter on the table that I made good use of….. I ate the whole jar.

The next step after Lobuche is Gorakshep, but this is where th trail becomes very difficult due to altitude and fallen rocks. The trail takes most about four hours, but I rushed it and made it in three. Gorakshep is basically not even a town it’s the launch pad to base camp, and KalaPatthar. Bottled water goes for about 3.50 US dollar here, so make sure you have cash. I arrived at Gorakshep booked a room and right away the same day I head to Base Camp. Again the trail is not the best, but its manageable. Base Camp is something itself. It has a Bakery and a Cinema. After seeing enough of base camp I decided to see if I could go a bit further. I didn’t make it too much further and that’s when my altitude sickness hit me. I had the worst headache I had ever had in my life. I was slurring my words and I eventually laid down to sleep for a bit. To my luck an American man held me steady and helped me down to Gorakshep where I had one of the worst sleeps of my life.

I woke up feeling mildly better but knew I was good enough to summit Kalapatthar. At about 4.30AM I began ascending so I could witness sunrise on Mt Everest. The climb is very steep but only takes about an hour and a half. Sunrise was incredible on Mt Everest, the air was clean, and no people in sight other than a Sherpa with a few tourists. The Sherpa approached me and asked me why I have no oxygen, I replied saying I don’t know. He handed me a cigarette and said here have some Nepali oxygen.

The same day I began back down the mountain pass. I hiked for a steady fifteen hours and made it to Namche Bazaar, that ATM had never looked better. I had German cake, a Yak Steak and a great sleep. I woke up early the next morning and made it all the way back too lukla in time for the last afternoon flight to Kathmandu.

It was my 12^th Carbonara on Freak Street in Kathmandu, And it had never tasted better. The entire trip cost just under 500 US dollars including my two way flight. This trip was one of the most incredible trips I have been on. I do recommend however taking a little bit extra cash with you.

Besides Tubing in Vang Vieng, Laos

Everyone goes to Vang Vieng in Laos to do tubing down the river.... don't get me wrong the tubing is amazing!, but there is another experience beyond the grubby town and the countless party going tourists, Vang Vieng holds some of the most beautiful Country side in the whole country of Laos,

So my experience began with bargaining for my Moto rental (a little bit sketchy but everything worked out) which turned out to only cost about ten US dollars not including my petrol. After spending a whopping three US dollars on petrol me and my girlfriend head out into the country side crossing the river on what looked like was a bridge of some sort.

The trail is rough and bumpy and has countless toll booths to which some are paid, and others are just quickly by passed. As you get further and further from the bass pounding sound from the countless bars on the river, it gets more and more gorgeous. You stroll along farmers ploughing through their rice fields and quaint small villages with much too see and explore. After about 45 km of rough road, we made a stop in a small town to look for food, which turned out to be our end of trail because of the youth driving by us weilding AK 47's. So we quickly climbed on our Moto's and returned using a detour and stopping at what the local's were calling "The Blue Lagoon", this Lagoon turned out to be beautiful, and made and excellent spot to swim and cool off. Beside the Lagoon was a restaurant which featured a small thatched hut on stilts in the middle of what looked to be a pond.

The hut felt as if it might fall over, but it held us long enough to finish our meals. The food here was excellent, it was a mixture of Laos and Chinese cuisine. When the time came to pay the bill the owner told us we were the first customers in eight months, this was sad to hear but gave you the feeling you are doing something not too many tourists do. The journey back was maybe even more beautiful then when we started, the sun was setting and the temperature was cooler, after about two hours we could hear the noise of Vang Vieng once again, and the pristine country side was left behind us. So the next time your in Vang Vieng, and tubing has lost its excitement, try heading out of the tourist trail.